Murabeho Rwanda...

It’s down to the wire, I have just one full day left in Rwanda.  It truly is unbelievable.  When I look back, it feels like I’ve been here forever, but it really did fly by.  Tomorrow I have my dear friend Peace’s wedding and then early Sunday morning my friend Nicole and I will take the bus to Kampala, Uganda. 

More on my travel plans later, but first an update.  Since my last post a lot has certainly happened.  I mentioned the workshop I was in the midst of planning.  Thankfully it went fabulously!  I considered it probably my biggest success here.  I never could have done it even a year into my service, so it felt really good to apply all the things I had learned over the 2 years to make it a successful  event.  I definitely put a lot of work into it but it would have been completely impossible without my friend Eric.  I met Eric through another PCV in my first year.  Eric is a teacher at a school for the blind in Rwamagana.  His motivation to help his students and his dedication to them is incredible by any standards, and here in Rwanda it’s almost unheard of.  Eric helped me organize the logistics, contacted the district officials and taught about half of the lessons.  I asked a lot from him and he went far above and beyond my expectations.  I was honored to have worked with Eric.

A few weeks after the workshop my friend Kari came from Minnesota to visit.  She is a world traveler and is always looking for an opportunity to go someplace new, so I was thrilled when she said she wanted to come to Rwanda.  We only had a week but it we hit the ground running as soon as her plane landed.  It was the last week of school so we went to the end of the year party at school and she also helped me host a carnival/party for the girls club.  She brought tons of candy and prizes which made it extra special for the girls and they had a blast!  Kari also gathered donations from family and friends and also bought many things herself to donate to my school which was greatly appreciated!  After school ended we headed out on a whirlwind tour of my favorite places in Rwanda.  We did a lot, saw a lot and rested very little, but Kari was awesome, never complaining a bit, she was always ready for more and we had a great time together!  All my Rwandan friends kept saying what a great friend Kari was for coming all the way to Africa to visit, and I couldn't agree more!  J

Since Kari left I've just been getting ready to leave and saying lots of goodbyes to fellow volunteers and my friends here in Rwanda.  Most everyone from the group of volunteers I came with have left.  Many are off traveling and others are already home.  It has sort of felt like I was left behind but at the same time, it was good I had extra time because I was able to see most of the people I wanted and say goodbye.  Tomorrow will be my last day and will be very bittersweet, I will be celebrating with Peace, but I will say final goodbyes to my closest friends.  It won’t be easy, but I feel so lucky to have made such incredible friendship while I was here that will stay with me forever.

Before I dive right back into “the real world” I’m going to take some time and travel.  It’s common for Peace Corps Volunteers to travel for a little while before heading home.  It can act as a sort of buffer and help make the readjustment a bit easier, plus we’re in a whole other part of the world so why not take advantage!  I've had an idea of places I wanted to travel after Peace Corps since I got here and lucky for me my awesome friend Nicole, had the same places on her list.

Our travels will begin in Uganda where we’ll spend just 2 days.  Near Kampala, the capital, you can go whitewater rafting on the Nile River.  This has been a common vacation for many PCV’s and I didn’t want to leave the region without doing it myself.  

After that we will fly to Johannesburg, South Africa.  South Africa has also become a popular destination for PCV’s, as it’s essentially America or Europe in Africa (parts of it at least).  We’ll spend a couple days in Johannesburg and then take a bus down to the coastal town of Port Elizabeth.   The route along the coast between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town is known as the Garden Route.  It’s famous for its charming towns and beautiful scenery.  During the holiday season many South Africans who live inland flock there to enjoy the scenery and get some respite from the summer heat.  When we arrive in Port Elizabeth we’ll rent a car and spend 5 days driving the Garden Route to Cape Town.  Along the way we’ll spend Christmas in a town called Wilderness.  We’ll arrive in Cape Town just in time to celebrate New Year’s with a couple fellow PCV’s who will also be in town. 

After about a week in Cape Town, we’ll take a night bus back up to Johannesbug to catch our flight out to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.  Unfortunately for us, in order to get the best price possible our flight includes 2 long layovers.  The upside is that our first layover of 10 hours is in Seychelles, an island nation in the Indian Ocean and is known to have some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.  We are keeping our fingers crossed we will be able to get out of the airport to explore the island a little bit which could make it the best layover ever.  In the case that we can’t get out of the airport it will likely be the worst layover ever!  Our second layover in Abu Dhabi is a bit shorter and after sleeping on either a bus or airplane for 3 nights in a row (it’s all part of the adventure, right?!), we’ll finally arrive in Malaysia!  From here we don’t really have a plan.  We have a few places we want to visit, but Southeast Asia is a famous backpacker route and we’ll be there during the high season so we figured we’ll meet people along the way who can direct us to the good places to go.  Right now we plan to visit Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Indonesia (Bali).  We have about 30 days and that itinerary might be a little ambitious so we’ll see where we end up. 

On February 6^th, Nicole and will part, she will fly back to America and I will be flying to New Zealand.  A few months ago, my friend who has lived here for a few years and who is also from Minnesota, asked me what my plans after Peace Corps were.  I told him about South Africa and SE Asia.  Then he asked me if I would be back home for Christmas.  When I said no, he said, “Then my advice is to wait and go home after winter.”  I thought a lot about this and what it really meant to go back home in the middle of February.  I decided to take his advice.  And while this means I won’t be home for a few more months, I think it’s best for my sanity and the sanity of those who will have to put up with me.  So I’ve spent the past few months working to get a temporary working visa and looking for jobs.  I still don’t have anything lined up, but it will be summer there and from my understanding they need a lot of temporary workers for tourism and farming.  I’m actually going to try to find a job as a nanny but if that doesn’t work I’m confident I’ll find something. 

After all that it will be about May or June and then I’ll head home.  Like I said though, I’m just sort of going with the flow and I may end up back home sooner, anything can happen.  Once I do finally make it home the only thing I’m concerned about is seeing all my friends and family.  I’m confident that everything else will work out in time.  As Rwandans so often say, I just need to be patient.

So this will be my final blog post from Rwanda.  I do hope to continue posting while I travel, hopefully at least some pictures.  I can’t even begin to express my gratitude to everyone who has supported me over the last 2 years.  Whether you sent a card, package, encouraging words, thoughts or prayers my way, it was very much appreciated and it truly helped me make it through.  I feel so incredibly fortunate to have such amazing people in my life who have inspired and supported me.  Thank you, thank you, thank you.

While I am no longer a Peace Corps Volunteer, my job isn't quite over.  Peace Corps’ mission consists of 3 goals.  To paraphrase, number one is to help countries develop, two is to teach others about American culture, and three is to teach Americans about other cultures.  So when I get back I look forward to sharing my experiences with everyone.  Rwanda is a beautiful country with stunning scenery but also a sad and unfortunate history that makes it a complex place today.  But even after all they've been through, Rwandans are only looking to the future, while many other developing nations seem to have given up, Rwanda is forging ahead at full speed.  Despite the challenges and frustrations I encountered there were even more wonderful and uplifting moments.  I love Rwanda and whether I come back or not, it will always feel like home to me. 

All my love,

Annie

Projects

Well, with only 3 weeks of regular class time, and about 11 weeks in Rwanda left, the reality of leaving is hitting hard.  These days I’ve been staying busy teaching, visiting friends and wrapping up my projects.

One project I wanted to do since arriving at my school was The World Map Project.  It’s a project started by a Peace Corps Volunteer in the 70’s to paint a mural of the World.  Now there is a manual with instructions and advice on how to complete the project so there have been hundreds of maps painted by Peace Corps Volunteers all around the world.  I wanted to do it; first of all, because I love maps, I could sit and look at a map of the world for hours.  Second of all, I wanted to provide a good resource for my students and make the school look a little bit nicer.  So I made a plan and set out with a few students to paint a 12 foot by 6 foot map in the school library. 

Although, I wanted to do it and was excited about it, I sort of dragged my feet through the whole process.  We started the project back in February and just finally completed everything this month.  I was resistant just because I was nervous, I had never done anything like this before, and my students definitely hadn’t, so each time we had to complete a new step, tracing the map, painting in the countries, labeling the map, etc. I worried it was going to be a huge disaster.  Finally I learned I just had to go for it and hope it all worked out, which in the end it did! 

The students really did most of the work.  We gathered groups of volunteers usually on a Saturday or Sunday for a few hours, to complete each step.  First they traced the entire map using a projector we borrowed from the health center, another day they painted in each of the countries, then outlined them and finally labeled each of the countries and oceans.  The only part I really had to help with was the painting.  The truth is most of the students had never painted in their life.  They’ve never had an art class to learn any of those skills, so even the basics, like how to use a paintbrush was new to them.  After they “painted” the countries, I then spent many hours after school and on the weekend touching up each of the countries, which I actually really enjoyed and found quite relaxing.  Other than that though, the work was all theirs. 

When we began the project I promised them a party at the end to celebrate their work.  So finally last weekend we had a small party with Fanta, cake, and of course speeches.  It was nice to hear some of the students’ comments about what they learned and appreciated about the project.  After speeches were finished, each student that participated signed their name on a plaque I made to hang below the map.  It was a great conclusion to an awesome project.  I do hope the students who participated learned something and hopefully other students in the future will make use of the map will learn something too.  No matter what, it was, without a doubt, a HUGE learning experience for me.

I have to give a special thank you to, Janet Rezac, Joanie Tupy, Carol Pavek, Mary Turek, Lynn Picha, Karen Pauly, Peg Svoboda, and my mom, Margie Pexa, who are all part of a monthly Scrabble Club.  Every Christmas, instead of trading gifts or doing a Secret Santa, they pool their money and donate it, usually buying gifts for a family who may otherwise not have any presents for Christmas, an awesome idea, right?  Well, last year I was the lucky recipient of their generosity and was able to fund my project!  I honestly don’t know if it would have happened without their help, so the school, students and I truly appreciate their kind and generous donation!  Thank you! 

Tracing (as you can see, we had to stand on chairs, on top of tables to reach the top,
I said a prayer each time we worked that no one fell and broke any bones)

Painting

Outlining

Labeling

And the final product!

Another project happening at my school is the building of two, 40,000L underground, rainwater catchment tanks.  I wish I could take more credit for this project, but basically all I did was send a few emails and make a couple phone calls.  Through another Peace Corps Volunteer I was connected with a Non-Governmental Organization called Water for Life based in Kigali.  It’s a husband and wife team (Nick and Jen Greener, Nick’s actually from MN) who work to fund, organize and complete these water projects in schools, health centers and communities all over Rwanda. 

Although the government of Rwanda is working hard to improve the infrastructure of the country, water is still a problem.  There are water taps spread through my community that are controlled by a single, country-wide water company.  People in the community take containers of all sizes, pay to have them filled at these taps and then haul them back to their home to use for everything; drinking, cooking, washing etc.  There is also a tap at the school students use to get water which is included in their school fees. 

The Eastern Province is notorious for being hotter and drier than the rest of the country.  The only seasonal changes we experience are 2 rainy seasons and 2 dry seasons.  This past dry season was difficult, we went weeks without rain and the taps were dry for 5 or 6 days at a time.  You never knew when the water would come, but when it finally did, it was usually for an hour or two at the most.  My theory is that the water company turns the water on and off in an effort to ration it until the rain comes again.  Unfortunately, even in the rainy season the tap is still dry from time to time, as is the case right now.  When there isn’t water students walk every day after school, about 30 minutes each way to fetch water from the lake nearby.  Obviously this isn’t ideal.  Another frustrating part is that when it does rain it’s not just a little drizzle, but huge, heavy downpours, and you just have to watch all the water drain away unused.  This water project is amazing because, it will catch the water from the school buildings and collect in these huge tanks.  The students will then be able to use the water for bathing, washing and cleaning.  YAY!!!  It will also help alleviate erosion and flooding, both of which are also big problems at the school.  Right now the workers are in the midst of putting gutters on all the buildings and soon we’ll have water!  I’m SO EXCITED!!!  I’ve have been so grateful to have the opportunity to work with Nick and Water for Life.  When Nick first planned to come to my school, I was so nervous; I wanted to project to happen so badly and I was prepared to have to convince him that we needed it.  It was nothing like that, we were approved right away.  This was because Nick knows the reality; clean, reliable water and these tanks are needed everywhere, and Nick is so eager to help anywhere he can.  The project is funded by donations Water for Life receives and also by the school.  It is important that the school pays for part of the project so that they feel like they have made an investment, and therefore, are more likely to care for it and maintain it into the future.  Check out Water for Life’s website for more info about the awesome work they are doing. Water for Life - Rwanda

One of the tanks

The workers put up the gutters (check out their homemade ladder)

I have one last project I’m currently working on.  I’ve collaborated with an awesome teacher from a school in Rwamagana who was a facilitator at our GLOW Camp in August.  We are working together to plan a 2-day workshop on October 13^th and 14^th to promote GLOW Clubs in area schools.  We are inviting two students and one teacher from 7 schools in Rwamagana District to attend.  We will discuss gender equality, life skills and provide participants with the tools and resources necessary to begin a GLOW Club at their school.  The details have all been worked out and so far everything has gone fairly well, I’m just holding my breath hat everything falls into place and it will be a success.  Keep your fingers crossed for me that all goes well! 

In other news, I just found out there will be a new Peace Corps Volunteer coming in to replace me when I leave.  This is typical for Peace Corps and I had expected that I would take over for someone who was leaving when I joined.  In Rwanda, however, because Peace Corps just came back into the country in 2008, they are still establishing new sites, so I was the first in my village.  When my group came in we were about 65 which meant they have to find 65 sites for each of us.  Now the new group that arrived a few weeks ago, is only about 35 which means not everyone from my group who is leaving will be replaced.  For some this is good, because, for one reason or another, their site just isn’t good for a Peace Corps Volunteer.  Peace Corps staff has evaluated everyone’s sites and has hopefully weeded out the bad sites for the new volunteers.  Thankfully my site was chosen as a good one!  I advocated to be replaced because  I really love my school and village.  It’s a great location, there are plenty of opportunities to get involved in the community and my school has awesome leadership.  Listening to other volunteers talk about their headmasters or headmistresses, I know my headmaster is far more organized and motivated than most.  Nick (from Water for Life) who has worked with many other schools and organizations throughout the country has also made the same comments.  They are looking to the future and have seemed to appreciate my help.  Ultimately, I think it’s a good site because a new volunteer will be utilized appropriately, supported and valued.

I have to admit though, it’s a little strange to think about someone else coming here, living in my house, working at my school, visiting my friends.  I guess you can say I’ve become a little possessive.  After all the hard work of developing relationships, working on projects, suffering through the dry season, etc. it’s a little hard to imagine someone new coming in and taking over what has become my life and home here.  Obviously, it would be much worse if no one was coming at all, and I’m thrilled that I’ll be replaced (just that word- replaced- makes it difficult).  Hopefully though, some of the work I’ve put in here will make things just a little bit easier for the next volunteer.  

I've been making an extra effort to take pictures of everything and since I have fast internet I thought I would also include some pictures from this morning at Umuganda.  The last Saturday of every month, from about 8am-11am all stores and restaurants close and technically no one is even allowed to drive on the roads, everyone is expected to be participating some sort of community volunteer activity.  Often times people are cleaning public spaces, repairing roads, etc and sometimes it is organized to help an especially poor family in the village build a new house or latrine.  It varies in each place and from month to month.  At my school their is a club for survivors/orphans of the genocide who gather on Umuganda to clean, weed and cut grass at the Genocide Memorial in my village. So this morning I helped them out.  

Cutting grass (this is basically how all grass is cut in Rwanda)

The Group

Sending all my love,
Annie

The beginning of the end...

The second term is long over now, but it was actually productive; I started teaching English at school and to the nuns in my village, painted a 6 ft x 12 ft world map, taught all 350 students how to use the library, finally established an organized Girl’s Club, and construction began on 2 huge, underground rain harvesting tanks.  I plan to devote a blog post about my projects in the future once they are finished. 

Now we’re in the middle of our 6 week break, which is twice as long as usually because Rwanda is doing a national census.  Why that means we get double the time off, I don’t know, but I’ll gladly take it!  After the term ended, I promptly headed to beautiful Kibuye for a final Peace Corps conference, COS, or Close of Service.  Those of us who came to Rwanda together back in October 2010, gathered one last time, this time to discuss the end of our service.  We spent a lot of time talking about highs and lows of our service, the things we’ll never forget and the things we can’t wait to forget (many of these had to do with rodents or bacterial diarrhea).  But much of the time was spent discussing the upcoming challenges we all face.

Joining the Peace Corps was not an easy decision, but once I made that decision I had a plan and knew what I would be doing for 2 years.  And, of course, leaving home was difficult for obvious reasons; leaving friends, family, my job, the comforts of the western world, and all that was familiar and known to me, to join a world that was completely unknown.  I was terrified. 

However, change and transition is never easy and my life here in Rwanda is what I know now and my old life in America seems foreign.  I have changed, have had new experiences and gained new perspectives and it’s going to take time to see how they fit, and how I fit back into America.  Life back home has continued too in my absence and there are a lot of things I’ve missed; people have moved, gotten married, had babies, and died.  I can’t expect, as much as I want to, to pick right up where I left off. 

When I left for Peace Corps I completely detached myself from my life in America; I quit my job, sold my car, moved out of my apartment, discontinued my health insurance, deferred my school loans, got rid of my cell phone, and so on.  I haven’t had to think about any of that for 2 years, now I have to go back and start from scratch. Life in America is expensive too, I’m used to living off just $250 a month and I’m definitely not looking forward to having bills again.  I’ve lived a pretty simple life here and the culture of consumerism in America can be overwhelming. 

Just like there were so many unknowns when I left for Peace Corps, there are just as many now.  I had a friend who always said that we do kids in America a disservice by telling them they can do anything they want.  All those options can be paralyzing.  An interesting theory, but I’m beginning to understand it now.  I have no commitments to anything, I can live anywhere, change my career path, go back to school, etc.  How can I possibly choose and what if I make the wrong decision?  It’s exciting and terrifying at the same time.  I also feel extra pressure because I’m getting older now and I don’t want to do something just to do, I want to make my decisions wisely and with purpose. 

The frustrating reality is that most of my questions and decisions can’t be made right now.  I just have to wait and see how it all works out and deal with it as it comes. 

I don’t write about all this to complain or draw sympathy, instead hopefully a little patience and understanding.  So when I have a break down in the grocery store and start crying because I can’t choose, from the 28 different kinds, which toothpaste to buy, you can pat me on the back and explain to the onlookers that “It’s ok, she just got back from the Peace Corps.”  J 

Our COS conference wasn’t all serious talk, it was also a great time for us all to get together as a group one last time, to reminisce and talk about the future.  I have felt so honored to serve with such an amazing group of people. I’ve never felt more challenged to work harder and push myself as I have by my fellow volunteers.  I’ve made many friends that I probably wouldn’t have under normal circumstances, but because we were all thrust into this, crazy, challenging experience together, we will always be connected.

 

Boat ride on Lake Kivu

Relaxing at the Bethannie

Immediately after COS I went straight to GLOW Camp.  Last year we held camp in late November, but this year we decided to do it in August to then hold a similar camp for boys in November (and no, it’s not called BLOW, but more appropriately BE, Boys Excelling, to avoid snickers from the Americans). 

GLOW this year was an outstanding success!  (If you’re not familiar with GLOW see my previous post GLOWing Bight)  Again, I worked with a great group of Peace Corps and Rwandan volunteers.  I was able to bring 5 girls from my school as well as my friend and colleague, Aurore, who came as a facilitator.  Last year we invited 50 girls and this year we doubled it and had 100.  Miraculously, even with so many, everything went beautifully.  There were a few hiccups here and there, but the girls had no idea and they had the time of their life!  This year, same as last, I acted as the camp “mama”  making sure the girls were up in the morning, asleep at night, and helped them if they were sick or had any other problems.  The job was a good fit for me and I really enjoyed it, but was thoroughly exhausted by the end.  I will always look back on GLOW Camp as one of the best things I did as a Peace Corps Volunteer.  It’s so amazing to see my students, who barely speak in class and are so shy around me, and by day two of camp, they are laughing, having fun, making new friends and feel completely free to be themselves in a safe and encouraging environment.  Rarely can you actually witness the changes you’ve helped to make, but GLOW Camp is one of those unique opportunities where you can see the transformation right in front of you.  It’s an awesome program that I’m honored to have been a part of.

The Junior Facilitators (girls who attended camp last year and were asked to come back as leaders)

Playing games and having fun!

Modeling their face painting

Listening attentively to a class about Gender Equality

Yvette, Benie, Veronique, Genereuse, Aurore, Me, and Rachel - Everyone from my school

So I got the two biggest parts of break over with in the first 2 weeks.  Since then I’ve been hanging out at home, trying to stay busy by reading, cooking, watching movies, planning for next term and visiting friends.  I’m trying to enjoy the time, because I know once school begins again it will quickly get busy again and the time will really fly by. 

Hope everyone is enjoying the last weeks of summer! 

All my love,

Annie

Here are those pictures I promised, finally.  Enjoy!

Zanzibar...

The beach in Kizimkazi at low tide, at high tide the water comes up to the plants

The women getting the fish

Nadine and I enjoying our amazing seafood platter!

Our snorkeling spot

Sunset in Nungwi

The beach in Bweju

And some from gorilla trekking...

Just hanging out

This is the silverback of the group, he's about 40 years old

Playing in the trees

Mom and baby, the first gorillas we came upon

Music...

It's the rainy season here in Rwanda and it's for real.  It rains almost everyday and often a lot.  When it rains everything sort of comes to a stand still.  The only way to get around my village is by foot, bike or moto, which no one wants to do when it's down pouring.  All the roads and paths here are dirt and when it rains they become mud.  The mud here is especially difficult because it's more like clay so when it's dry it's hard as a rock, then when it finally does rain it can't really soak in so there is rivers of water running everywhere.  Every time I go to school after the rain I pray I don't wipe-out in front of all my students because when it's wet, the dirt becomes as slippery as an ice skating rink and it all sticks to your shoes so once you arrive at your destination you've got about 10 extra pounds of mud stuck to the bottom of your shoes.  It didn't take long to learn, when it rains, just stay home.  So like a good Rwandan I'm sitting at here at home on this rainy, rainy day and it got me thinking and I decided to write a blog dedicated to music.  

I love music.  I love that there is music for every mood.  When I’m having a bad day I know exactly which music will make me feel better or will make a good soundtrack to my pity party.  There’s music that fits all activities: driving, exercising, cooking, cleaning, sleeping, thinking, working, and of course dancing.  And a single song can evoke so much emotion: happiness, love, sadness, hope, excitement, peace, gratitude, and the list goes on.  I also love that music can immediately take you back to a specific moment in time.  There are songs that when I hear them all I think of is my freshman year of college or a road trip I took with a friend. 

Music has been my saving grace here.  When I’m home either the radio or my i-pod are always on.  I rely on my music more than ever to lift my mood.  Some days are not so great and there isn’t always someone else to talk to about it, so instead I turn on my music and it usually does the trick.  It's noise when things become too quiet or too loud and I need to drown out the radio blaring nearby.  Best of all, it's always there in an instant and I can just relax and listen without having to give a thing.  

I thought I’d share some of my favorites that I turn to most often.  

·         The Head and the Heart

·         First Aid Kit

·         Florence and the Machine

·         Cloud Cult

·         Bon Iver

·         Band of Horses

·         The Decemberists

·         Rihanna

·         Frightened Rabbit

·         Jonsi

·         Mason Jennings

·         Neko Case

·         Regina Spektor

·         Sigur Ros

·         Iron & Wine

I’m always looking for new music, so if you have any good recommendations I’d love to add them to my list!

Although it isn’t music, podcasts have also helped me maintain my sanity here.  Specifically, This American Life and The Moth.  I’ve listened to This American Life for years and if we’ve ever had a conversation most likely I’ve mentioned it because I love it, but here it’s even more amazing.  I love listening to stories about America and what Americans are thinking about or doing.  It’s like a little bit of home.  I also love The Moth which are short stories told by real people in front of a live audience.  Some are sad, some are funny, but all are entertaining.  I actually don’t hate hand washing all my clothes anymore because it’s a mindless activity and an excuse to listen to my favorite podcasts all day.  If you haven’t already, I definitely recommend checking them both out, you won’t be disappointed.

Hope the weather is nicer wherever you are.  

All my love, 

Annie 

Vacation!

Shortly after I arrived in Rwanda, my dear college friend Nadine began talking about coming to visit me.  I, of course, was excited about the idea of seeing her and showing her Rwanda.  As time went by and we talked about when she would come we found that the only time that worked between our two schedules was the second week in April.  Unfortunately that’s about the worst time to visit Rwanda as it’s the beginning of the Genocide Memorial.  There is a national period of mourning that begins in April and continues until July when the genocide officially came to an end, but that first week is the most intense with daily meetings and memorials that are considered mandatory for all Rwandans.  I was hesitant to have Nadine come at this time because I didn’t want her only impression of Rwanda and maybe even Africa to have such a somber and negative tone to it.  

I had been planning to visit Zanzibar in April anyway so it seemed like a perfect place for Nadine and I to meet and enjoy a vacation on the beach.  Zanzibar is a small island just off the coast of Tanzania that was a major trading port and as a result still maintains Africa, Indian and Arabic influences.  I met Nadine at the airport in Dar Es Salaam where we spent the night.  Dar is significantly bigger than Kigali and more developed but lacks anything really worth seeing so we immediately left the next morning and took the 2 hour ferry to Zanzibar.  We spent two nights in Stone Town which is known for its winding, narrow streets, night market where you can buy exotic seafood that is cooked right in front of you, and lots of shopping. Zanzibar is known as the “spice island” and was at one point the largest exporter of cloves in the world.   While in Stone Town we took a spice tour to a spice plantation.  There we saw how many common spices are grown including vanilla, cloves, nutmeg, and several others but my favorite was the cinnamon tree. 

It was nice to see Stone Town but we were both happy to get to the beach.  Our first stop was a coastal village in the Southwest of the island called Kizimkazi.  We booked two nights at our hotel and would have stayed longer but it was closing down for a month and a half for the slow season.  As a result, the hotel was really quiet; I think there were only 6 of us staying there.  It was a beautiful place that was nice with modern amenities but still had an authentic feel to it; example, the outdoor shower.  During the day we sat by the pool which we had all to ourselves or ate lunch in the open air dining room, while watching the women from the village go meet the fisherman and take their catch in to be sold at the market. 

This area of the island is known to be the home to many dolphins so we had the opportunity to go out and swim with them.  When I signed up for it I really didn’t know what it was going to involve so I kept my expectations low and I decided I would be happy just to see some dolphins from the boat.  So Nadine and I got up early and went out on the boat, it was just her and I, a driver and 2 guides.  We rode for about an hour then we spotted the dolphins so they told us to get ready with our snorkel gear and sit on the edge of the boat.  When the driver positioned the boat just right and they would yell at us to jump in.  So with the boat still moving, and Nadine and I with our goggles and flippers on, very ungracefully, flopped ourselves over the side of the boat into the middle of the ocean.  Once in our guides yelled at us to “look, look” so we would look down and could see the dolphins swimming below us.  When they swam away we got back into the boat and repeated the process.  It was all a little bit ridiculous but still pretty cool. 

After Kizimkazi we went up to the North of the island to the village of Nungwi which is generally more touristy.  Even though there were more people it was still really quiet because of the slow season.   Nungwi is known for its beaches as it’s the only place on the island where you can swim during low and high tide.  On the other parts of the island the tide can go out about half a mile.  While in Nungwi we took a day trip to go snorkeling near another island.  We had a perfect day and the water was so clear and a beautiful, bright turquoise blue; it was gorgeous  I was really excited to snorkel, I had done it once in St. Maarten but it was pretty pathetic but this time it was great.  There was lots of beautiful coral and interesting fish to look at.  After snorkeling we had lunch on the beach and then had a nice boat ride back.  The rest of our time in Nungwi was spent relaxing, reading, eating, talking, and swimming.  Then the time came for Nadine to leave so I dropped her off at the airport and we said goodbye.  I can’t even begin to express how wonderful Nadine’s visit was and I grateful I am to her for coming.  I love all my friends here in Peace Corp dearly, but there was something so comforting about being around someone who has known me for years and really knows me, it was just so easy.  I was also really proud of Nadine, I know there were a lot of people back home that were worried about her and couldn’t believe she was going all the way to Africa, but she came prepared and handled everything really, and she never got sick!  A hugely successful trip!  

So after Nadine left I still had 3 days in Zanzibar.  I took a taxi to the East and met two Peace Corps friends who were also on the island.  We stayed in an awesome, rustic bed and breakfast.  Here we were the only one’s staying which was great because I didn’t have to fight any for the hammock but also a little creepy especially at night since I had my own room and there wasn’t any electricity.  It was so nice and relaxing though!  While there I spent most of my time reading but we did also get to go out on a short snorkeling trip which was fun especially because we went out just the 3 of us in a small, traditional sailboat.  Before we left the island we spent another night in Stone Town, did some last minute shopping and then headed back home. 

Zanzibar was a perfect combination of good friends, good food, natural beauty, relaxation, culture and a little bit of luxury (at least by my current standards).  A great vacation.

I tried to load pictures but my internet is just too slow, I’ll try again next time I’m in Kigali.  In the meantime you can watch the video Nadine’s husband Rob put together.  He sent Nadine with a small video camera complete with waterproof case to capture our trip.  He did a great job!  Here’s the link: http://youtu.be/JrYPptMlU7Y

Fortunately for me, my vacation wasn’t quite over when I got back to Rwanda.  As some may know, Rwanda is known for the mountain gorillas that live in the volcanoes on the border of Rwanda and Uganda in Volcanoes National Park.  Visitors to the park have the opportunity to hike up one of the volcanoes and visit the gorillas that live there.  As a foreign resident, we get a discount but the price is about to go up significantly, so some fellow PCV’s and I decided to take advantage now and go to see them.  We arrived early on the morning at Volcanoes National Park and met our guide.  We learned we would be visiting a family of about 13 that included 2 silverbacks and a couple babies too.  We hiked for about an hour when we came upon them in a thick bamboo forest.  Our guide informed us that the gorillas love bamboo shoots because it’s sort of like alcohol is to us and it actually makes them a little drunk.  Thankfully they aren’t angry drunks though.  Visitors are allowed one hour to spend with the gorillas.  We watched them as they ate or slept and as the young ones swung and played in the trees.   Our presence there never really seemed to faze them and they just continued in their regular business.  Because we were in such a thick forest we were able to get really close otherwise we wouldn’t have been able to see them at all, so often I was standing less than 5 feet away from them.  It was awesome to hang out with these fascinating animals out in the wild.  It was something I would have never done had I not lived in Rwanda so I’m happy I had the opportunity.  Again, I’ll try to post some pictures soon.

Now I’m 3 weeks into the second term.  It’s always a bit of an adjustment back into real life after vacation but things are going well.  I have some projects I’m working on, but this blog is already exceptionally long so I’ll write about all that next time. 

All my love,

Annie

Visitors

Well I’m way behind on my blogging and have lots to update on so I’ll start at the beginning. 

It’s already been 2 months since my parents came to visit.  As I posted before, it really was an amazing visit from start to finish.  Never in a million years would I have though my parents would visit Africa, and I don’t think they did either.   That’s the best part though, Africa wasn’t necessarily on their bucket list, but they had the opportunity and so they took advantage of it.  They made the trip incredibly easy for me; they never complained about anything and took it all in stride.  When mom saw that I had a squat latrine she was a little anxious about it at first but she did what she had to and dealt with it.  I know plenty of others would have demanded to stay at the nearest hotel.  They never stressed when things were running on Africa time (i.e. late) or when dad had to kill the mice sneaking into my house at night (I kept assuring them that my mosquito net is like a protective bubble and nothing can get in).  As we traveled I always prepared them for the chaos that would come; the pushing and shoving of the bus park or the harassment and shouting in the market, but it never seemed as bad as I had anticipated.  I don’t this is because any of those things have lessened but that it never even seemed to phase my parents; they just took it all in.  It was amazing.

I was able to show off some of my favorite places in Rwanda and it was nice to have them appreciate the beauty of the country.  I enjoyed being a tourist here too; we stayed in some nice hotels and everyone we met was very welcoming and accommodating.  While it was nice to see the country, I think my parents will agree with me, the best part was spending time at my site.  My friends here have truly become my family here, and for my parents to meet them and vice versa, for my friends to meet my parents was so wonderful.  We spent the week visiting my friends but I think the highlight of the week was our last day, which also happened to be my birthday, when the teachers and students at school planned a program to welcome my parents.  There were speeches, skits, songs, modern dance and my favorite, traditional dance, all performed by students.  I was so grateful my parents saw what an amazing place I live in and just how kind, generous and caring everyone here is.  That day was easily one of the best days of my entire service. 

On international flights you are able to check 2 bags up to 50lbs each per person, which is exactly what my parents did.  I joked that my neighbors were going to think they were moving in, only I wasn’t really joking.  Only one bag contained their stuff and the rest was filled with things for my school and some of the things I’ve been missing most from home.  There were so many wonderful schools supplies that had been donated from the teachers at St. Wenceslaus including books and posters to put in our new library, pens, pencils, stickers, craft supplies, stamps, glue sticks, crayons, markers, and the list goes on and on!  It’s so much fun to have these things to use because they really don’t exist here.  Just the simple fact that I can bring markers to class so the students can color in their diagrams or pictures they’ve copied into their notebooks is a big deal.  The teachers, students and I are all so grateful for their kind donation and will put it all to good use. 

Like I said, my parents also brought me some of my favorite things from home to help me get through the remainder of my service including cereal, granola, gum, crackers, seasoning packets, etc.  It was like Christmas x10 and now I’m trying my best to ration it all to last me as long as possible. 

The entire trip turned out better than I could have ever imagined and I can’t even express how proud and grateful I am and forever will be that my parents came all the way over here to visit me.  Thank you. 

More to come soon, I promise!

Annie

I apologize for my extended absence, I have a lot of things to update about but not the time to do it so unfortunately, it will have to wait.  These days my mind has been focused on one thing only....

I'm on my way to spend 10 days on the beautiful, pristine and unrivaled beaches of Zanzibar!  It seems as though no Rwandan PCV can leave their service without a trip to the island, so I've heard lots of stories about the winding streets of Stone Town, the fresh seafood you buy off the street, and of course the beaches have become something of a legend now.  And as excited as I am to experience it all for myself, I'm FAR more excited that my amazing friend Nadine is going to meet me there!  I absolutely cannot wait to see her and sit together on the beach, drinking cold drinks from pretty glasses and catch up on all the happenings from the past year and a half.  It doesn't get any better than that! 

So when I get back I'll have even more to update but I promise I will with lots of pictures!  

I hope everyone has a wonderful Easter!  All my love!

Annie

Hello!

First of all, I want to thank everyone for the birthday wishes, it was a great day but the entire week has been fabulous!

My parents are doing great and have adapted quickly!  We spent Saturday-Thursday at my site and now we'll be traveling around the rest of Rwanda.  The time we spent at my site was amazing!  Everyone was so happy to meet my parents and couldn't believe they came all the way from America to visit!  It meant so much to me that my parents could meet all of my friends who have taken such good care of me and have become my family here.

Friday we had planned to go to Akagera National Park to do a safari but unfortunately our guide had some issues with his car so we spent the day in Rwamagana and went Saturday instead.  It turned out to be an amazing day and mom and dad had a blast!

Here are just a few pictures for now and I'll try to post more again later.

All my love,
Annie

Everyone needed their picture taken

More students

Zebras we saw on safari before we even got into the park

How mom and dad spent most of the ride through the park (we've all got bruises to prove it!)

Hippos down in the left corner

Impala

The views in Akagera are incredible!

Our guide was determined to find giraffes for my mom!

Mom, Dad, me and Brittany, a fellow PCV who joined us on the trip to the park